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Buying a Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe or any other high end watch

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  • Buying a Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe or any other high end watch

    The three brands that are the most popular are Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe. There are many other brands that I own and that I love, but those are the big three. I never buy watches straight from the authorized dealer – dumb to pay full retail. There are lots of reputable places.

    Also, there really aren’t any counterfeits that will fool a real watch collector. All you have to do is look at the watch and maybe have it opened and examined to determine that it is real - counterfeits are meant to fool other people looking at the watch on your wrist. I’ve seen almost no counterfeits that would even come close to fooling me. Plus you are almost never going to find counterfeits with solid gold or real diamonds. Counterfeits are generally for people who want to pay a couple hundred dollars, tops.

    Where you do have to be careful of is in aftermarket dials, bezels and diamonds, at least on Rolexes. Those are not an issue with most other watches. Rolexes are the ones that tend to have the most aftermarket junk put on them. Some Cartiers too - such as Pashas, might have a gold grill or something like that placed on them aftermarket. But, a reputable dealer will tell you what is aftermarket, and anyone who knows what he is doing can tell a Rolex diamond (which will always be a flawless D grade) from an aftermarket.

    What you will find is that the discount from full retail on a brand new watch is about 40 - 50% discount on Cartier, and anywhere from 25 – 40% off on Patek and Rolex. When gold and platinum prices are super high, this discount tends to be less.

    To get a discount, you buy these watches from non-authorized dealers (ones that are not authorized to carry the brand in question - for if they were authorized, they could not offer you any discount). From these non-authorized dealers you will find two kinds of watches:
    1 - Pre-owned
    2 - Brand new never worn.

    The pre-owned are pretty easy to imagine how the dealer got them. The brand new in the box - well that is harder to imagine.

    The way these dealers get the new watches, is that someone buys them in Europe or in Asia, especially during the periods when the currency exchange rate made this favorable, for prices that are much lower than U.S. retail. Also, although this is not allowed, sometimes Rolex dealers will sell the watches out the back door to their friends.

    Even if nothing else is in play, the full retail on a Rolex for example, in Europe or Asia is always going to be less than the full retail in the U.S.

    Then, the buyer brings the watch into the U.S., usually not at the same time as the box, to avoid customs. The box and warranty papers might be shipped in empty, separately. And now you have a brand new, unworn watch, with blank warranty papers.

    It's amazing the deals you can get for such watches. There really is no reason to pay full retail for any watch, if you know what you are doing and can find the right dealer.

    If you want to get a pre-owned watch at the best price, you really have to go into the business. I don't have time for that, and in general I won't even buy a pre-owned watch, because I have the connections to get a brand new one in the box for about the same as a pre-owned.

    BUT if you are interested: here is one way, and the way a lot of these guys on EBAY get their merchandise. You have to go to the local authorized Rolex dealer, preferably more than one, in your town. You get to know the manager - take her out to lunch. Tell her that you are a watch dealer, and that you will purchase ANY Rolex (or maybe also Cartier and Patek) watch that comes in the door from a customer. In other words, that when a customer comes in the door with a watch he or she wants to "trade in" or sell, that you will purchase it.

    The manager's incentive is that once that customer gets the cash from you, he will buy from her. So you don't need to grease her really any more beyond that occasional lunch or whatever.

    Then, each time such a customer comes in the door, and it does happen often, you have to be ready to roll on short notice, with cash in hand and go in and buy that watch. Of course, you have to really know what you are doing - you have to know what the watch is worth and offer that much (and not much less - because you have to assume that the customer may have already checked out another source, such as a pawn shop). The catch is - that you MUST buy every watch that comes your way. If you get to picking and choosing, the manager will eventually drop you as a source for her.

    Nowadays with the internet, there is no such thing as "wholesale" when it comes to watches. With enough time and research, anyone can get a watch for the same price as the reseller. It just depends on how much time you are willing to put into it, and how much you know so that you won't get burned.
    Please read the forum rules before you post.

    And if you need extra help:
    Modee Tech Support

  • #2
    Once burned, twice shy - burned on a Rolex on EBAY

    And speaking of getting burned - this is what happened to me in Spring 2001. I found a Rolex Day-Date ("President") on EBAY, and at that time I was looking for a platinum one, and I won it, for $10,700. The seller had one feedback, and it was for another Rolex.

    The buyer wanted payment via bank wire, which - actually, isn't all that unusual. Most of the watches I have bought over the years over the internet I have either bank wired or overnighted a cashier's check, or met in person and paid cash. With a reputable dealer, that is usually the only way you are going to get a deal done for a ten, twenty, thirty maybe even forty thousand dollar watch.

    I mean on one deal I used my platinum AMEX for about $30K, but that was only because the dealer knew me and I had dealt with him before.

    By and large, if I were a seller of a high end watch (and I have sold a few, although mostly I am a collector not a reseller), I would never take a credit card either. And in 2001, PayPal wouldn't even ALLOW a transaction over $10K.

    So anyway, the guy gave me two different phone numbers for him, I talked to him several times, felt comfortable. He even FAXed me a copy of his REAL passport and driver's license, and a blank canceled check. I emailed the other EBAYer who had bought from him and left the feedback, and got back some emails assuring me the guy was okay.

    So...I wired the money.

    The very next day, as I was looking further into it, I determined that the X-originating IP address (on the email headers)
    How Can I Trace Where Email Came From?
    for this supposed buyer of his was identical to the IP address for the seller! Ulp.

    Well then, I knew. And within a few days, his EBAY account was suspended.

    Now this seller, an Australian citizen of Lebanese descent who lived in Miami, Florida, was a real piece of work. I mean he kept giving me plenty of lip, kept emailing, answered the phone, and even when he shut down one cell phone he would give me another cell phone number. I think the guy had psych problems! on top of everything else.

    And of course he kept denying that he had done anything wrong, or intended to swindle me - and his strongest argument was that if he was going to do anything like that he would have already just closed up the emails and phone lines and gone away.

    But, even though he kept the communication open, after a false FEDEX tracking # and dozens of emails and phone calls, and a few weeks later - NO WATCH, NOTHING. And this was all happening to me at the WORST time possible because I was in the middle of law school finals, and I least could afford taking up my time dealing with this bozo, whom by then my friends and I had dubbed "fraud guy" because he had written in one of his emails:

    "I'm not that fraud guy you think I am."

    lol anyway....

    Finally I reported him to the F.B.I. - I gave them a detailed package on him including where he lived, the emails, the EBAY transactions, the auction shill bidding (itself a federal offense across state lines) everything.

    I had a friend who was a private investigator research the fraud guy, and I got everything on him, including past addresses, his bankruptcy from a few years back, and more.

    Then I was contacted by a few other victims of his, who had also been bilked. (But one of them...surprisingly, actually HAD received a Rolex from the guy, but the wrong one.)

    So apparently what this guy was doing was some sort of Ponzi scheme, and he had apparently gotten caught short. I am not certain that he had intended to cheat each person right off the bat, but bottom line was that I was out $10,700. and had no Rolex!

    Finally, I got the guy so scared that he was convinced that I had an agent peering at him from across the street with binoculars into his apartment. I found out that he had a dog, and the name of the dog, the name of his girlfriend, and so on...and if you just use your imagination and picture that I was emailing him and contacting him both as myself and as some "retired treasury department official" who had somehow gotten involved, eventually the guy got so scared that he actually returned all my money, depositing it in cash over three separate deposits into my Bank of America account right there through a branch in Miami.

    Of course EBAY was a big help - they refunded a whopping $200. (less $25. deductible) which was all they did in those days (now of course they do absolutely NOTHING - Ebay offers no buyer protection whatsoever if the transaction is done without PayPal).

    And then after it was all over I got a call from some local detective in Miami (I still have his number in case you ever get ripped off by someone in Miami) who said that they had the guy in custody for doing this to someone else, and that my name had been mentioned and the guy was screaming that he had in fact paid me. I told the detective, yes, he did pay me back. The detective then paused thoughtfully and said, "Well, that just goes to show that if you bark loud enough, someone will listen." :-)

    So the story ended well, for me anyway.

    And the F.B.I.? I got a letter from them three years later telling me that they were still investigating and would get right on it. Riiiiiiiiiiight.


    Live and learn. That was the first and last time I ever got burned. You have to get up PRETTY EARLY in the morning to put one over on Modee. I mean, it just made no sense - turns out this guy HAD given me all his REAL information. And yet, he had tried to rip me off anyway.

    So I now have the following rules of thumb for EBAY purchases of expensive items, such as watches:

    1. Offer to meet in person and transact for cash. (I don't care WHERE the guy is - if he's on the other side of the earth, tell him you have a friend who lives there who will meet him.)
    2. If the seller comes up with ANY sort of excuse whatsoever (I got burned once, I don't meet people, etc. etc.), after all, who turns down cash? he is a fraud guy - forget him, and move on.

    That "offer to meet and transact for cash" is the litmus paper test to root out all fraudsters.

    3. And, if - as in my case - the price seems too good to be true (the price at that time for that Rolex should have been double what I wired the guy), then it almost always is!
    Please read the forum rules before you post.

    And if you need extra help:
    Modee Tech Support

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